There’s no better day than the when you realize you won’t be needing your thick and heavy sweaters, coats, and boots again this year. Breaking out the summer wardrobe is cause for celebration, but it’s a bad idea to ball up your winter clothes and chuck them into the back of your closet. They’ll sit there for months on end, and since they’re pieces that you invested in they’re worth preserving!

We’ve outlined how to store your winter clothes properly, for the easiest transition possible.

1. Clean everything first.

The biggest and most effective tip is to machine wash or dry clean everything you plan to store before packing it all away. It’s icky, but moths and insects are naturally attracted to our everyday scents, such as food, perfume, deodorant, and smoke, which can linger in the fabrics despite being unnoticeable to you. Using a natural laundry soda, like Nellie's All-Natural Laundry Soda, instead of a chemical detergent, removes odors instead of covering them up with synthetic scents. This is ideal for long-term storage!

2. Remove all of the plastic from your garments.

Never store anything in the dry cleaning plastic it came in. The plastic is ideal for trapping moisture, which can cause fibers to dry out and cause the yellowing of fabric.

3. Invest in plastic storage bins.

You may be tempted to try those as-seen-on-TV plastic vacuum bags, but many experts warn against them since you use a vacuum to suck out all the air, which again dries out the garments. Clothes need to breathe, so plastic bins are fine for non-delicate items like t-shirts, jeans, wool sweaters, or polyester. Just make sure to pack things loosely to ensure optimal air flow.

4. Pack delicates differently.

For your delicate items like silk, organza, or cashmere (or anything that’s just extra special to you), remove them from the dry cleaner’s protective plastic immediately, wrap them in acid-free tissue paper, and place in 100% cotton-canvas storage bags.

5. Don’t hang your sweaters…

If you’re lucky enough to have a spare storage closet, resist the urge to hang your sweaters, as they can become misshapen beyond repair. Alternatively, fold them and place them in your plastic bins of your fabric storage bags with the heaviest garments at the bottom. One thing to remember: don’t shove all of your sweaters into one bin. Air needs to circulate to keep your fabrics fresh and to prevent mildew and mold from forming. You may also want to add cedar-scented panels to keep pests away.

6. …And don’t hang most coats.

Yes, it’s true! Believe it or not, coat storage is more effective when each item is gently folded, instead of hung if the coats are wool, leather, faux fur, or down. First remove everything from the pockets and fasten all snaps, buttons, and zippers, and then gently fold the coat. Then, loosely stack them into boxes, storage bags, or plastic pins. This will help to better retain the shape of your coats than hanging them in the closet.

7. Commit "CCDD" to memory.

This means “cool, clean, dry, and dark.” The last thing you want your storage environment to be is too hot, too dusty, too damp, or too bright.

8. Invest in boot trees.

After spending your hard earned money on beautiful footwear, don’t let the leather or suede break down in your closet! Buying a few boot forms can do wonders when it comes to maintaining the shape of taller boot styles. It’s always best to keep your boot standing upright, but space is often at a premium in your closet, so you can lay them flat on their sides in your plastic bins. Just be sure to condition the, first, and lay some cotton (like an old shirt, pillowcase, or a muslin shoe bag) over each pair to keep them clean.

9. Pack shoes with tissue paper.

If your cold-weather shoes aren’t tall boots, but instead things like ankle booties, pumps, or loafers, loosely packing them with clean tissue paper before storing will help maintain their shape while they sit in storage, but be sure to wipe them down first.

Now you’re all set to swap out the kits for the bikinis, and can look forward to perfectly maintained clothes when Winter rolls back around.

Nellie’s All-Natural products work wonders on your laundry, but did you know they’re ideal for using on tough stains from beauty products? Whether it’s lipstick, foundation, or mascara you can use Nellie's products to get your clothes, linens, and household surfaces looking like new!

Maybe it’s foundation on your white collar, lipstick on your sleeve, or self-tanner on your bed sheets, we've all been there - trying to deal with a very noticeable tough stain that’s difficult to get out! Thankfully, you don’t have to use chemical-based detergents. The power of nature is strong enough to get even the toughest stains out.

Oxygen Brightener

Your sheets can fall victim to a lot of tough stains like blood or self-tanner. A warm, healthy glow on the skin is a classic summer look, but it can be difficult to get an even tan when you’re chasing the kiddos around the yard. Self-tanning products solve that issue, but then there are stains on your sheets and clothes! The Oxygen Brightener works like magic on these tough to remove stains like blood, grass, and self-tanning products. Separate your whites from your colours and add 3 tablespoons of Oxygen Brightener to your load. Wash with the Laundry Soda and watch your linens come out of the washing machine as good as new!

You can also pre-soak your stained linens before the wash by using one tablespoon along with Nellie’s All-Natural Laundry Soda in 10 litres or 2.6 gallons of warm or hot water. Soak for 30 minutes, rinse thoroughly, and wash with the Laundry Soda.

WOW Stick

The WOW Stick is oil-based, so it’s idea for oil-based makeup products like lipsticks, mascara, concealer, eye shadows, and many liquid and stick foundations. Simply wet the stain, rub the WOW Stick onto the stained area, and then agitate the stain under water. Then launder using Nellie’s All-Natural Laundry Soda. Can’t wash the stained item? No problem! Use the WOW Stick as a spot-treatment for things like your mattress or shoes.

There's More!

Did you get stains on another home surface? Use the Oxygen Brightener on upholstery, fabric, kitchen floors, counters, trash cans, and many more washable surfaces with a solution of 1 tablespoon of Oxygen Brightener per 16oz or 500ml of water.

Carpet stains? Don't worry. You don't have to rent a carpet cleaner or use nasty chemicals! For a naturally-effective spot remover, create a solution using 1 tablespoon per 16oz or 500ml of water. Soak up excess liquid before applying the solution to the stain. Use only enough to cover the stained area, wait 1-5 minutes, and soak up with a white towel. Repeat if necessary. Rinse thoroughly and blot dry. Vacuum when dry.

You know how and when to clean your pillows and mattresses, but do you clean your duvet? You can and you should, and we're going to walk you through the how-to. Regularly cleaning and switching out your sheets and bed linens is great, but what good is a wash if the comforter isn't taken care of too?

Before we get started – check the care labels. You’ll want to take some extra care if you have a down comforter or a feather duvet, rather than a hollowfibre duvet. Can you wash a feather duvet? Yes, but you need to ensure it’s in a good condition beforehand, and make sure that your duvet is suitable to be machine washed. If the label says ‘dry clean only,’ then it’s best to leave it to the professionals and take it to the cleaners. If not, then read on!

BEFORE YOU WASH A DUVET

First, remove the covers - you can wash these in your regular laundry load so don't worry about them for now. You can absolutely wash your duvet at home, albeit carefully. First, check the duvet for any holes or loose feathers, and, if necessary, sew up any holes with a needle to make sure the feathers don't become loose in the washing machine. Once you're happy your comforter is secured, you're good to go.

THE PRACTICALITIES

The big question: can you wash a duvet in a washing machine at home? This depends on the size and type of your washing machine. Needless to say, duvets can be quite large and they might not fit into your washing machine. If that's the case, your local launderette should have larger machines that will accommodate the duvet more easily. However, many home machines will be large enough. Front loading machines are the best option here - they tend to have a hollow drum that allows for more room for the duvet to move about. Some top loading machines have an agitator in the middle of the drum which can make things more tough, but it can still be done.

SETTINGS & DETERGENTS FOR WASHING

We recommend a gentle setting for washing duvets, along with a warm (not hot!) water temperature - around 30°C or 85°F is a good rule of thumb. In terms of detergent, it's best to opt for something mild and gentle. The Nellie's All-Natural Laundry Soda is ideal. If the stains are very dark or noticeable, don't be afraid to use the WOW Stick or the Oxygen Brightener. When your duvet is in the machine, don't wander too far! Keep an eye (or an ear) out for the end of the rinse cycle. Before the spin ends, stop the machine and repeat the rinse cycle once more. Since comforters are so big, fluffy, and absorbent, they can easily retain some soapy water, so an extra rinse cycle will make sure it's completely fresh and clean.

DRYING A DUVET

When you take your duvet out of the machine, don't be alarmed! If it's a feather duvet, the damp feathers will have become darker, and will make your duvet seem discoloured. This is nothing to worry about, and it'll return to its normal colour once completely dry. To dry, it's best to use a dryer, and you should always follow the care instructions. Again, if your home dryer can't accommodate the duvet, check out your local launderette. Some people prefer to line dry their duvets, but we recommend using your dryer - with line drying, the process takes so long that the duvet can begin to grow mildew and mould. The faster they dry, the better! A good compromise is partially drying the duvet in the dryer, and then air drying afterwards.

SO, CAN YOU WASH YOUR DUVETS AT HOME?

Sometimes, yes! Just be sure to check the care label first. Some comforters may be marked as 'dry clean only,' and in that case they should be taken to your local dry cleaners.

Washing a duvet may not be the easiest (or most enjoyable) cleaning task you'll ever complete, but it's much better than sleeping under dirty bedding. Don't wash your duvets too often -- too much and the duvet may start to come apart. We recommend washing your duvets once per year, usually when you make the switch between your light summer comforter and your heavier winter alternative.

Last week, we were all about cleaning your pillows, but this week we’re diving deeper with an easy 5-step guide to deep-cleaning your mattress.

You spend about a third of your life on your mattress – when was the last time you gave it a good, deep clean? Your sofa probably sees the bristles of a vacuum cleaner more often. Besides a more pleasant and productive night’s sleep, a clean and well-cared for mattress can last longer and can help prevent nasty (and costly) pest infestations.

The conventional wisdom, back when most mattresses could be flipped over, was that you’d turn your mattress twice per year, and take that as an opportunity to clean it. These days, most mattresses, including the pillow-top variety, have a proper top and bottom and are unable to be flipped. However, cleaning it twice a year is still a good rule of thumb. Our list of five steps for a deep clean will make you sleep easier and cleaner.

STEP ONE

Start the cleaning process by stripping the bed of all sheets, pillows, and bedding, and toss the appropriate items in the wash. To remove tough stains, use Nellie’s Oxygen Brightener or the WOW Stick. Be sure to wash and dry on high heat if possible to ensure a truly deep clean.

STEP TWO

Vacuum your entire mattress surface with your vacuum cleaner’s upholstery attachment. Pay special attention to seams and crevices where dirt, dust, dead skin, and other gross things can gather.

STEP THREE

When you’re finished vacuuming, check for stains and spot treat them with the Nellie’s WOW Stick.

STEP FOUR

Next, deodorize by sprinkling Nellie’s Laundry Soda over the entire surface of your mattress with a sifter. If this is your first cleaning, sprinkle lots! For best results, leave the Laundry Soda there for 6 or more hours. If you can place the mattress near a window, the sunlight will add to its sanitizing power.

STEP FIVE

After you’ve tackled any odors, go back over the mattress with your vacuum’s upholstery attachment. If you don’t already have a mattress cover, we’d recommend buying one. Adding a mattress pad between the cover and bottom sheet will help absorb any moisture. Along with the periodic deep cleaning, the extra layers of protection will help prevent mites, fleas, and other unwanted bed guests. Now that should really help you sleep tight!

They support your head while you sleep, and they’re a key player in a polished-looking bed – but when compared to bigger bedroom pieces, pillows can seem insignificant. So even if you’re the type who regularly deep cleans the house, it’s easy to forget about cleaning your pillows. You’re probably washing your sheets and pillowcases on a regular basis, but let’s face it – those fluffy, feather-filled sacks (which absorb oils from your hair and skin!) also need some TLC. Keep in mind that not all pillows can be cleaned the same way – down and feather-filled ones require different methods than the decorative accent pillows you have around your home. It’s not laborious or time-consuming – just follow our tips and tricks for foolproof pillow cleaning that will leave them looking like new! While we’re at it, we’ll throw in some good tips for cleaning your pillowcases too.

USE A WASHER AND DRYER FOR DOWN AND FEATHER-FILLED PILLOWS

Both down and feather-filled pillows can be machine washed on a delicate cycle and then placed in the dryer to tumble dry. However, make sure they’re completely dry to prevent the feathers from producing mildew. We also recommend leaving the pillows out near a window or warm radiator for a few hours before returning them to the bed, just to be certain that the interior filling is completely dried out. This goes for travel pillows too! Their synthetic stuffing tends to create mildew if left damp inside the pillowcase, so only wash the pillow if completely necessary (like you spilled your in-flight drink on it). Otherwise, you should be fine with a simple refresh.

SPRITZ WITH VODKA BETWEEN WASHINGS

Vodka – it's not just for Moscow Mules! You only need to wash your pillows every six months to a year, and vodka is a quick-drying sanitizer so it's perfect for giving your pillows a refresh when you're changing the sheets. Simply fill a spray bottle with vodka, spritz your pillows, and let dry. These will dry faster than when you do a deep clean, so you’re not risking the chance of mildew.

SPOT CLEAN DECORATIVE PILLOWS

For more decorative pillows (like those on your sofa or guest bed), they should be spot cleaned as needed, but the appropriate cleaning technique depends on the type of material each is made of. Since these pillows often have appliques and fabric that should not be machine washed, spot removal is the way to go.

Try using Nellie’s All-Natural WOW Stick to lift stains out of the fabric by rubbing the WOW Stick on the stained area, and then agitate the stain under water. Let air dry.

WASH PILLOWCASES WEEKLY

When it comes to washing pillowcases, we suggest a weekly (and perhaps twice-weekly during the hot summer months) machine wash with Nellie's All-Natural Laundry Soda. If your cases are made of cotton, flannel, synthetic, bamboo, or modal, wash them in hot water. If your pillowcases are linen, silk, or sateen-weave cotton, choose the gentle cycle and a cold-water wash. For both, dry on the low setting with your Nellie's Lamby Wool Dryerballs.